If you are not careful, climbing can become really obsessive. Once you have started to buy all those nice shiny karabiners, nuts and other weird devices you may find it difficult to stop. "Just popping into Longland's for a brew" you say. Ha! everyone knows you will be sitting there reading the technical details leaflet of your new camming device or flexing the soles of your new climbing boots. No, I am not convinced that it is possible to enter Longland's through Outside without making a purchase. The best route is through the side door, that way, you get upstairs without passing a sales point. Make sure that you sit inside, rather than on the balcony otherwise you will end up going down to buy a tent or pair of bouldering pants! Oh yes, the bit where you actually stuff bits of your tender flesh into nasty hard rock that follows a session at the "caff" is nearly as good!

One of the most popular of these is Birchen Edge. Most climbers seem to call it Birchen's Edge which geographically does not exist! I guess the errant "s" arises from the proximity of Gardom's Edge, which definitely has an "s". The grades range from Moderate to E4, although most E graders are too snobby to visit (except when no-one is looking). The Promenade (Diff) is a popular beginners route, as is Trafalgar Crack (V Diff). Moving up the grades, Powder Monkey Parade (S), Sail Buttress (VS) and Topsail (VS but feels easier) are popular and worthwhile routes. Crows Nest (VS) has it all, a thrutchy starting crack followed by an exposed undercut slab.

Burbage North is another crag favoured by beginners because it has a good selection of friendly routes of good quality. Most of the routes are quite short, about 8m in length. It does attract more extreme graders but mainly because of the bouldering - there are plenty of classics to be had. Not all of the bouldering is hard, there is lots for mere mortals as well. The classic route of the crag is probably The Knights Move (HVS) although Long Tall Sally (E1) is a favourite first extreme lead.

Holly ash wall (Hard V Diff) is a rather polished but fairly pleasant climb with some other easy climbs next to it. 20 Foot Crack (S) near the road end of the crag can be a little awkward to start but is worth doing. Twin Chimneys Layback (Hard V Diff) looks grotty, it is in a sheltered corner but is really worth seeking out, as is brooks' Layback (VS). Most people jam the latter route but it is a perfect layback crack.

Stanage, wow! Where do I start. I suppose at the popular end. The name is rightly deserved, you try getting onto Hargreaves Original (VS) at a weekend! A classy climb. Pull up, onto a slab and off you go tee hee!. There are plenty of V Diffs here too, for example, Hollybush Crack. No hollybush, just excellent climbing, jam it, layback it, the choice is yours. Equally as good is Leaning Buttress Indirect. This follows a corner crack to a 'window' at which point a traverse in a fine position takes you to the left side of the tower, up which you finish. Black Hawk Traverse is another good one worth seeking out, if you want to make it harder, go up too high! Aim for the Mississippi Buttress area as well, there are some classics to suit everyone such as Amazon Crack (S), Mississippi Buttress Direct (VS ), Congo Corner (HVS) and Dark Continent (E1). Moving along to the middle group, you find the classics of the Left (E1) and Right (HVS) Unconquerables, in addition to Tower Face and Goliath's Groove (both HVS). If you fancy a "right thrutch" go and do Tower Crack (HVS)whilst you are in the vicinity. For those extremists who may be reading this, savour the perfect aretes in the same area, e.g. Archangel, which goes at E3. What a line! If you can be bothered to walk to the North end, there is plenty to delight and tax you. For a bit of fun, do Kelly's Overhang (HVS) or Quietus (E2). More subtle than these two, but very close by, is High Neb Buttress (VS).The Crow Chin area is popular with mid grade climbers with a range of grades from Diff to HVS. There is tons more, visit marble wall and further north still, the end slabs have some nicely exposed but reasonably graded climbs.

Millstone has some of the longer routes on grit. The top is pretty awful in places, especially above the Keyhole Cave wall - it is rather like being on ball bearings. In other parts of the crag it is better but care needs to be exercised if you are to avoid injuring the second or innocent bystanders. There is nothing much in the easy grades here, there are a few worth seeking out such as Eartha (HS) and The Great Slab (HS). The best climbs begin at HVS such as plexity (HVS) which has some superb open moves across to the finishing crack in a fine position. The classic of the Peak at this grade must be Great North Road. Do it, its brilliant. If you want something that is strenuous, go for Dexterity (HVS), overhanging, barren of footholds in places and with a testing move across right near the finish. I will mention one more HVS, that is Bond Street, a fine hand jamming crack. The place abounds in legendary hard classics, Erb (E2), Regent Street (E2), Time for Tea (E£) and of course Masters Edge (E7).

Disclaimer:

I am sure that this is not really necessary but just in case ...

The routes mentioned here have obviously not been graded by myself and I can accept no responsibility for any accidents that may happen whilst you are climbing. Climbing is a potentially dangerous pastime and the decision to climb any route mentioned in my article above must be your own based on the abilities of your party. This article is simply a list of climbs that I have enjoyed, sometimes in a rather masochistic way!